Saturday June 18

The day started off with rain, but luckily it stopped in time for our 7am hike.  It is about 2-3 hours to the upper falls.  We had a guide and the walk started off slowly and easy.  I was able to enjoy the beautiful variety of butterflies and dragonflies.  The path wove through the forest and across a brook.  There were little bridges across the water.  It seemed easy enough until we came to a small fork and Rudy told me, "now we climb." The guide handed me a walking stick and we started hiking straight up.  The small path was just wide enough to go single file.  We got 1/4 of the way and I had to stop.  I didn't know if I'd be able to do it.  It was like climbing hundreds of slippery stairs. 

We finally made it to the top.  I could see the town down in the valley. 

Then we had to climb down a ways to where the waterfall was.  The waterfall is breathtaking.  I wanted to stay there all day (partly because I was terrified of going down the way we had come up!)

We finally started the journey back down.  It was slippery and gravity wanted me off my feet, but we made it to flat land.  We went a little further into the forest to the lower falls.  This is far more public, but interesting because the cliffs beside the falls are home to thousands of bats! 

Look closely on the left. All the dots are bats!

We rested and returned to the guest house.  The walk back somehow seeming much longer!

Friday June 17

This weekend I'm traveling to Ho Hoe (pronounced Ho Hway) with Rudy to go to a monkey sanctuary and to hike to see some waterfalls. 

Rudy came to pick me up at 9 and we got into one of the rickety vans, called a Trotro. (Side note, each trotro ride was 3+ hours long) We rode to Ho, switched vans and went to the sanctuary on a moterbike.  I'm secretly loving moterbikes, they're dangerous but so fun!

I HELD SO MANY MONKEYS! They are called Mona Monkeys.  They were worshiped by the local tribes and followed when they migrated.  I fed them bananas.  They climbed all over me and got me really dirty.  We took another trotro to Ho Hoe and a cab to the secluded falls.  We stayed in a guest house at the base of the mountain and decided to start hiking in the morning.

Wednesday June 15

Antibiotics are working.  I went to work today.  I did baby and office stuff in the morning then went to the high school.  They wanted to ask me questions about the US.  They asked about Osama Bin Laden, the economy, Obama's popularity..It was an intense sociological discussion.  The teachers were just as involved as the students. 

After lunch I had to help Ms. Ester attend to a government worker who was inquiring about the home because the US Embassy will be providing mosquito nets for everyone.

I went home at 3 but came back for church at 7. It was much better than my Evangelical experience.  I think I'm a baptist in Ghana!!

Tuesday June 14

I am sick!  Last night the neighbors were burning trash and ths smoke came right into my room.  I feel miserable.  I'm taking antbiotics, but I'm not able to work today.

Monday June 13

Back to work today! :) I was excited to see the kids again.  I got to the nursery/office and the babies swarmed me.  I was covered in babies! They'd missed me!  We got them cleaned, fed and put down for their nap.  I went down to the level 3 kids because they wanted to show me that they'd been working on their complex multiplication.  I love the way the kids work together.  When one is at the board it's like the Price is Right!  The kid at the board does what he can, and when he gets stuck he turns around and the others yell out the answers or the next step. 

School was held in the multipurpose area because the school building was flooded.  There was even a turtle swinning around in there.  After lunch I went back to Ms. Ester and talked about the new building.  Ms. Ester explained to me who Jesse Brooks was.  The orphanage is sponsered by the Jesse Brooks Foundation.  Ms. Tammy and Pastor Chris had a daughter Jesse who dreamed becoming a missionary and creating the home.  She was 11 when she died in a car accident.  Her parents took it upon themselves to make her dream come true.  They lost a child, but in that loss they've given a second chance to over 40 children. 

Sunday June 12

Today I went to church with my neighbor Paul.  I went downstairs at 6:30 and  Paul was still sleeping.  I was overjoyed! I was ready to go back to bed, but Paul emerged and rushed to get ready.  He pulled himself together and explained that he'd been in the hospial with his pastor whose wifehad a baby.  I listened as we left.  We took motorbikes because we were late, which was an interesting experience since I was wearing a skirt...We arrived to a structure that was open with a roof. 

We were late and I was ushered to a seat by a woman.  Paul went over to the music section.  He failed to mention that he was not going to be with me!  I will quickly summarize 3 hours of Evangelical ( yes the same as Jesus Camp) service.
-Songs as long as the spirit moved the singers to sing them
-3 ministers with three seperate messages, all yelled in a voice similar to Grover from sesame street and translated into Ewe. 
-Welcoming the newcomers (me) to be prayed over then wisked away to a seperate building.
When I was taken away with the others another preacher told us that we should join the church.  I told them I was visiting and had a church in the US and asked if I could leave. The minister told me that I could wait.  As soon as I had the chance I left. 

I was solicited for funds, asked to bring people to the US and host people in the church.  I felt like everyone wanted something from me.  I just wanted to leave.  Paul however was enjoing showing me off.  He asked me to go to the hospital to take pictures of the baby of the minister who tried to convert me...It was pouring and I started walking home. 

Paul finally got the picture and got us a cab home.

Tonight I met up with Rudy and we went to the beach.  There's always a beach party on Sundays.  We had a good time but went home early.  I'd had a long day!!

Saturday!

I cannot believe it's been a week already.  I am settling in, getting used to the sites and sounds, and feeling welcomed and accepted. 

I was supposed to go hiking at this waterfall with Rudy today, but it was rainy this morning and we didn't feel like hiking in mud.  Instead we went to the beach and played cards.  It was a really quiet and mellow day.  Rudy laughed at my sunburn and taught me a crazy German dice game his wife Julia taught him.  I can't wait to teach everyone at home.  It's way cooler than Yatzee.

This is a baby pig in front of a fishing boat at the beach.

I have been invited to church in the morning, and I cannot say no, even though I really want to.  It starts ay 6:30 am and goes until 12:30 pm.  Seriously.  I love the Lord more than anything, but 6 hours seems a little intense to me. 

I will be sure to let everyone know how it goes.

Friday June 10th

I had to get up early today to get the babies extra spiffy for the groundbreaking ceremony.  I also had to look nice.  I didn't know this was such a grand affair, but apparently there will be VIPs.

This is the home now.  (The view from my balcony) The building to the front left with the tin roof is the school.  The flat-top building is the church/multipurpose area and the pink building is the dormitory/office.  The room on the far right on the top floor is the nursery/office.

The new site is so important, because currently the orphanage buts up against a cemetery and dump that have melded together into a giant mess.  I feel badly for those buried in the cemetery, that is not where I would want my final resting place to be.  It's inhabited by wild pigs...

We arrived at the ceremony and took our seats.  It was an outdoor event with tents set up.  All facing the main tent where the most important people, the missionaries, the design team, the chairman of the board, and eventually the region's King!

Quite a few people told me to go sit with "my people" the white people in the head tent, but I assured them that I was in the right spot.  There was music and dancing, as this was a celebration, and as always there was prayer and praise to God. 

A traditional dance...I'm learning it!



The lady in white is Ms. Ester!



The ceremony was 4-5 hours long.  Honestly I zoned out for most of it, just playing with Princess who I was holding in my lap.  The king got up to speak and recognize everyone who was working so hard to better his region.  He gave each of the missionaries and team members a token of his appreciation.  I thought it was so cool.  He was in traditional dress and decked out in gold.  He then called me up.  I was confused, and some lady behind me took Princess and shoved me forward.  He asked me who I was and what I was doing in Ghana if I wasn't with the group behind him.  I told him my name and that I am simply here volunteering for a little while.  He then presented me with a ceramic beaded bracelet (that Rudy tells me is antique and very very expensive) The King told me that anyone willing to travel across the ocean alone to help people she doesn't know is deserving of recognition.  He also told me I must stop by and visit his palace before I leave. 

We got back at 6pm, a full 12 hours after I started my day.  I am horribly sunburned, but it was a day I will remember for the rest of my life. 

Thursday June 9th

Today I almost overslept.  It was miserably rainy, and most people just don't go to work in the rain.  I would have liked to stay in bed all day, but the Good Shepherd is home to these children.  It never closes, and neither does the school.  The teachers however decide not to come in the rain, so I had to substitute.  I took care of the babies morning routine first then went down to entertain the Level 3 (ages 10-12) students.  That's what the other teachers told me to do.."just entertain them."  We examined the US with a crude map I'd drawn, and I taught then some silly camp songs.  We also did constructive things like math,  The kids are all at different skill levels.  Some can barely add without counting on their fingers, while others begged me to give them complicated long division and multiplication problems.  The other teachers commented on my teaching methods and were impressed that I had actually kept the students' attention. 

These aren't the kids I taught, they're in kindergarten.  I just think they're precious!

Another interesting thing that happened today! There were people fixing the rickety rusted spiral stairs that lead to the upper floor of the orphanage (where the office/nursery is).  They had a crazy looking generator powering this welding tool, and the cord, exposed wire held together mostly with tape, was sitting right in a puddle!  It's a miracle no one was hurt!

Wednesday June 8th

Today after breakfast I went right over to the orphanage and straight up the rickety spiral stairs to the office/nursery that has become my home.  The babies are on a schedule and I have to be on time.  Ms. Ester greeted me with a warm hug and a big smile.  It is obvious that she is grateful for my help.  She is a very harsh and strict woman, but I found out that before she arrived seven months ago, the orphanage had such a bad reputation.  Especially the girls.  Ms. Ester not runs it like a military school.  Everyone must be in uniform, and must be inspected in the morning.  They gather and pray and sing before school, and every time they see Ms. Ester they must say, "Madam, Jesus" to which she replies, "The Good Shepherd."


She is really a funny woman with a big heart, and with all her strict rules she has drastically changed the place.


So today was business as usual...except that Phillip, (who is lovingly referred to as Agogo, after a famous Ghanaian footballer with a similar shaped head) was being potty trained.  It was so funny to see the little guy on a bucket in the middle of the floor, while I scooted around him to complete my office work. 

It rained for the first time today.  It came down heavy, in buckets and didn't last very long.  The thunder and lightning lingered for hours though.  I left work at 3, and was reading in my room when I heard the children singing "Father Abraham" I learned that at Pilgrim Lodge when I was 8.  I wandered over to see what was happening, and was invited to join in their church service.  They have church every Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday.  This is such a religious place.  All of Ghana is deeply connected to God.

Tuesday June 7th

Today my role at Good Shepherd was decided.  I was initially going to teach math and English but there are currently enough teachers.  Also it is a known fact that students do not take white teachers seriously because white teachers don't cane. I will substitute if I am needed, but my assignment is with Ms. Ester.  She decided that I will be her personal helper while I am here.  This may seem like a lame assignment, but let me explain. 

Ms. Ester is a woman of outrageous strength.  She runs the orphanage, she is the headmistress, secretary, diciplinarian, and school nurse, and the primary caregiver of three infants.  On top of that she is in the middle of working with the Missionaries who founded the school on the development of a new structure.  The groundbreaking ceremony is Friday and Ms. Ester is in constant comtact with the missionaries from Alabama, (who are here this week, making her very nervous) the architects, electricians, and engineers.  Ms. Ester has recruited me to take on some of her tasks until the chaos dies down.  I am taking on some of her office tasks, like attendence, and making sure children have their medications.  I am also caring for the three babies.  Imagine if you can your office, where you manage 30 orphans full time, another 20 students from town during school hours, and your office is also a nursery home to three willful babies!

At the end of the day I am exhausted.  I don't know how Ms. Ester does it all.

Let me explain...

Hello!  It's Saturday of my first week. One week down, two to go.  I have not been able to update for a while because believe it or not the internet in Aflao is not always reliable.  Luckily my friend Rudy is the best computer technician in town, and not only did he get me hooked up, he also fixed my computer completely and upgraded it to Windows 7!  He's a good friend to have!!
So, there will be many posts tonight, but I will keep things chronological.

I woke up this morning in my sleepsack (thanks Mom) to the sound of roosters.

I went downstairs and enjoyed hot chocolate, in 90 degree heat, and Ghanaian bread, which has the texture of a cotton ball.  

I gave my gifts, then went outside, to the courtyard and waited for Charles.

These are the children in my house dressed for school.

Stacy, Junior, M-Girl and Gifty.

This is the well that is seriously just a hole in the ground.

Charles took me to the school/orphanage.  It is about 6 feet from my host house.   We walked through the school area, which is a cement foundation with a roof over it.  Then we walked to the extra structure which serves as the cafeteria/multipurpose area.  I met Ms. Ester, the leader of the orphanage and the woman who is in charge of me.  I also met Rudy, the friend of Charles who would show me around after work.  

I went with Ms. Ester to the baby room where there are three small babies, the youngest in the orphanage.  The other children range from 8-18.  Since the other were in school, and it has not been decided if I will be teaching or not, I spent the day with the little ones. 

This is Phillip.  He was found on stuffed into a plastic bag on the side of the road where he was likely to be hit by a car.  He's 1 year old, and he is so funny.  He loves to laugh and smile. 

This is Princess.  She was found in a cardboard box left to bake on a rooftop.  She is 10 months old, and she is dramatic!! 

This is Prince.  He was dressed nicely, and abandoned at the beach.  HE seems sweet, but he's secretly a troublemaker.

I had a good time playing with the kids, but there wasn't a lot for me to do.  I was happy when Ms. Ester sent me home at 2 to meet up with Rudy.

Rudy took me around so I would know how to get places.  He showed me the bank where I can use the ATM.  (I doubt I'll need to, because I got my refund from Simon today.) We also went and got a prepaid phone for me. He then took me to the market, where I can buy fresh fruits.  Mangoes are in season!  I haven't tried one yet, but I had a pineapple.  Rudy then took me to a hotel owned by his friends.  It has a pool that I can swim in. They were all very nice and wanted to hear all about me.  I was happy to meet more people closer to my age.  Rudy and I then took a cab to the beach.  I got to look at the Atlantic Ocean from the other side! 

Rudy assures me there are no Sharks.  He says there has never been an attack...who knows, maybe before I leave I'll go in...maybe.

We walked back.  I am getting used to the calls of "Yuvoo"- white girl. Aside from the blistering heat, the limited water and the constant sand in my shoes and eyes, Aflao is a nice place.  It's pretty at the beach, and the palm trees are enormous.  The people are friendly, and the laid back attitude is interesting.  It obviously drives a scurrying super-efficient person like me crazy, but it works here.  I'm adjusting.  (I wonder what my blood pressure would be here Mom!)

I went straight to my room after Rudy dropped me off.  I am slightly sun burned, and the dusty air has given me a big head.  (Grammie Dean would understand.)  

I am much more at ease today than I was yesterday.  Being active and going places instead of looking at then from a bus window has made me feel more comfortable.  I am excited to see what else is in store for me.

Travel and Day 1

After saying goodbye to my parents and Christian at Logan, I flew to DC where I waited 4 hours and boarded.  After boarding, we sat on the runway for an hour before we were told there was an issue with the windshield and if it couldn’t be fixed the flight would be cancelled.  It was fixed within the next hour, and I was able to text Simon and tell him I’d be arriving late.  10 sleepless hours later, due to the icy blast of too much AC we were landing in Accra, the capital of Ghana. 

I was astonished by how read the earth was, and the dark green of the foliage.  The heat when getting off the plane was almost enough to smother you.  I made it through customs without a problem and met Charles in the terminal.  I was under the impression that Charles had a car and would be my driver, as that was the case with Melissa, but I was mistaken.  Charles is a middle-aged man with a thick accent and no car.  He had a sign that said “Kiley Welkins” and once he’d taken one of my bags, he hailed us a cab.  We traveled maybe 500 feet and were stopped by brutish looking police officers.  One of which had a spiked metal club in his hand.  The cabbie and Charles were speaking rapidly in a dialect I couldn’t decipher.  The officers wouldn’t let us go.  The officer with the spiked club put it in front of the wheel of the cab.  Apparently it is illegal for non-designated cab drivers to pick up people outside of the airport.  Charles and the cabbie pitched in and bribed the officers.  We were once again on our way.  The driver took us to a street teeming with vendors.  On the drive Charles explained the plan for the day and tomorrow, but I only half-understood him.  Simon called and was overjoyed that I was in Africa.  I wish Simon was close-by because he seems genuinely nice.  Charles is ok, but more like a grumpy old man than anyone you’d want to rely on.  Charles made a phone call and arranged for a man to meet us at the “station” to exchange “a small amount” of money.  When we were at the “station” on the busy vendor infested street, we got out of the cab and into a rusty pile of tin that resembled a van.  

The van is a sort of shuttle that goes from Accra through Ghana on the main highway that goes all the way to Nigeria.  The van was rickety and we couldn’t leave until all the seats were filled.  This took an hour.  We started off, and I was enjoying myself, looking out the window at the farmland, full of free-range goats and chickens.  About 30 minutes into the drive I asked how much longer, and Charles told me 4 hours.  I wanted to cry, but I just continued to look out the window and admire the people getting on and off at various stops.  The ride was cramped, 14 people in the van at all times, but it wasn’t so bad until the last hour, when the road was no longer paved.  There were ravines in the road that had to be avoided, potholes the size of ponds…finally we were in Aflao, a village on the coast bordering Togo.  This was like any of the other villages I’d seen on the way.  Dusty, with small storefronts and tons of people.  We got out and walked through one store-area.  The store and the house are owned by the mother of Madame Philo.   The host family situation isn’t so bad, it’s a tenant house and I have my own room on the third floor.  I go downstairs to shower and share meals.  There’s an indoor (still bucket) shower and toilet.  There are four small children, a boy Junior,  and girls, Gifti, Stacy and the little girl with an M name that I can’t make out.  Tomorrow I will give them flashlights and headlamps.  The mother, Mme Philo and her 15ish daughter will get t-shirts and the baby will get Mickey.

I live on the third floor with a sketchy man.  He helped me figure out the lock on my door, then came into my room and insisted on washing the dust off the surfaces and sweeping even though I made it evident that I wanted him to leave.  Charles left as soon as he’d dropped me off, and I came back downstairs after my encounter with my neighbor to shower and eat.  They served me spicy brown rice which I had a few spoonfuls of, and a chicken wing that I didn’t touch.  I had my malaria pill and a bag of water.  The small children then came to paw at me.  They are fascinated with my skin and hair.  I told them they can play with my hair when it’s dry.  I excused myself and retreated back upstairs.  When I arrived, the guy was hanging out outside on the balcony in just boxers and tried talking to me.  I gave one word answers and locked myself in my room.  I have been here ever since, listening to cicadas and bullfrogs (that sound like they’re as big as Shark!)  I am blessed to have my own pillow and a sleepsack.  Tomorrow I am being introduced to the leaders of the orphanage/school which is literally a stone’s throw from my room.  I am also being introduced to the husband of one of the departed volunteers, who owns the internet café.  He will be my contact while Charles goes and attends to family business.  Before he leaves he is bringing me to get a phone and some minutes so I can call home.  My phone doesn’t work in Africa.  I cannot wait to talk to my family and loved ones.  I was definitely not prepared for this.  The culture shock has been intense, but I am hopeful about tomorrow.